‘3 foot waves, light offshore winds and blue skies; thanks Mother Nature, that’ll do just fine. Go easy on those 6ft rogue sets; we don’t want to go overboard now do we?!’ That’s probably what your average weekend warrior surfer would say if he/she was crazy enough to talk to the ocean on the paddle out. (But we swear Mother Nature listens sometimes). Anyway, we digress.
Big wave surfers have salt water running through their veins though. Their natural habitat is in the big blue. When terrifying storms approach, we batten down the hatches whilst they get out their wetsuits. They are a different breed that does an incredible job of pushing the limits of what’s possible & inspiring us everyday surfers. What’s the purpose of all this rambling? Watch this vid featuring O’Neill rider Mark Mathews and then you’ll understand.
